Moderne Burger
Address: 2507 West Broadway
Tel: 604-739-0005
homepage
Hours:
Mon-Fri Noon-9:00pm
Everything Olde…
By Dan Fishman
Eat Vancouver Columnist
Monday, April 10th, 2006
** (of four stars)
The Chairman gave me a call the other day and told me that my output lately has been pathetic. And you know what? He’s absolutely right. So I told him it was time that we finally checked out Moderne Burger, on Broadway just West of Larch. For me, there’s really nothing better than a great hamburger, and I have heard from a few people that Moderne Burger is excellent. Then again, I’ve also heard from some people that Vera’s Burger Shack is excellent, and unless “excellent” is a new slang word for “overpriced and mediocre,” that simply is not true [note from the editor: expect Dan’s review of Vera’s Monday, in which he will expand upon this comment]. So I was very interested to see if Moderne Burger would fall under the classical or the “moderne” definition of excellent.
We went to Moderne Burger on a Saturday at around 3:00 p.m., and the place was mostly full. We started out at the counter, but were able to move to a booth before our food got there. As we were leaving, a bit of a line for a seat had developed. This makes me think that if you came for dinner on a weekend, you might be in for a bit of wait. That being said, Moderne Burger might be one place worth waiting for.
The first thing that strikes you about this restaurant is that it feels pretty authentic. It is designed in the style of a 50’s diner, right down to the antique jukebox. Unlike most 50’s nostalgia restaurants, however, this one isn’t cluttered with posters and memorabilia, it is done subtly. It’s the little things that make you long for a simpler time: the color of the booths, the cream sodas, the malted shakes, and the fact that they only take cash (which of course can be annoying, but hey, no one said the past was convenient). The waitress was even friendly, and answered questions about the menu with enthusiasm. Now that’s something you truly don’t see much anymore.
You may be wondering how I have managed to get this far without mentioning the food, and the truth is, it’s because I loved everything about Moderne Burger, but I can’t bring myself to give their burgers my strongest recommendation. I loved Moderne Burger, I just wasn’t in love (with their burger). The reason for this is probably that my heart belongs to another; namely, Jack in the Box’s Bacon ‘n’ Cheese Ciabatta Burger… but more on that later. For now let’s stick to Moderne Burger.
Both the Chairman and I ordered the steak burger platter, which comes with fries, for $8.95. I also added cheddar cheese for a dollar. Turkey, lamb, salmon and veggie burgers were also available, but I think we can all agree that a hamburger is made with beef. I also ordered an orange cream soda and the Chairman had a malted vanilla milkshake. Both of the drinks were excellent, in my opinion. The orange soda tasted like a Creamsicle, as you might hope, and it arrived just the right amount of time before the food; long enough to appreciate it, not so long that I was in danger of staring down a plateful of fries and an empty cup. They even used crushed ice, a personal favorite. The Chairman’s vanilla malted was also “quite good; the slight nuttiness of the malt powder (imported from the States) was a nice foil for the smooth vanilla ice cream.”
Our burger platters arrived shortly, and I was quite impressed with the serving size. It didn’t say on the menu, but I would guess that the hand-pressed burgers were about 5 or 6 ounces, and the fries were piled high. As I said already, this wasn’t the single best burger I have ever tasted. But, I am happy to say that it was the best burger I have had in Vancouver [editorial note: Dan is yet to try the burger at Feenie’s, a few doors down from Moderne]. The cheese was wonderful, there was plenty of lettuce and tomato, and most importantly, they managed to keep the meat nice and juicy. I was, however, a little disappointed with the house secret sauce… I’m afraid the secret is that you can’t really taste it. This brings me back to Jack in the Box’s Bacon ‘n’ Cheese Ciabatta. If you haven’t tried it, you must. Since it is only available in America, this means you will need to drive to Bellingham. It’s worth it. The ciabatta is magic. The bacon is crisp. The toppings are fresh. And the special sauce will quite literally alter the course of your life. If you put that sauce on a Moderne Burger… well my friend, then you would really be on to something. Then again, that sauce could make anything taste good (ok, maybe not a Steamrollers burrito). I cannot overstate how good this burger is. But I digress.
Another thing that I liked about Moderne Burger was that they provided both malt and white vinegar at every table. What’s the point of serving fries, unless there is vinegar? And the fries were actually very good; as stated on the Moderne Burger website, they are hand cut from fresh potatoes, and the difference is noticeable. Two small quibbles with the fries courtesy of the Chairman: “the portion size was perhaps overgenerous – too much for even for two strapping young men and the fries were not salted after coming out of the fryer, requiring salting at the table and as we know, fries absorb salt best the moment they vacate the fryer.” I would have to agree with him that two adults could order one burger platter and one a la carte burger and have enough fries to share. Overall, I was very impressed with Moderne Burger. Although the price might be a little high, it is comparable to other quick burger joints in town, and the quality was vastly superior. I would definitely recommend Moderne Burger, with the following caveat: promise that you will try the Bacon ‘n’ Cheese Ciabatta if you have the chance. And when you do, let’s try to start a petition to get Jack in the Box in Vancouver! As for you Moderne Burger, I will see you again soon.
Dan Fishman is a Master’s student at the University of British Columbia studying Psychology. Sadly, the Bacon ‘n’ Cheese Ciabatta is not a figment of his imagination.
14 responses so far ↓
1 GERALD TRITT // Apr 10, 2006 at 7:58 am
Clearly the grease from the bacon ciabatta burger grossly affected Mr. Fishman. As the owner of Vera’s I take offense to the theory that we are overpriced and mediocre, at 5.29 for a patty that is made by us daily, 6oz FRESH, its clear that Mr. fishman would prefer to indulge in frozen mass produced pre-cooked burgers from a purveyor that is more concerned with saving a dime to earn a dollar (which can only be described as smart from a restauranteurs point of view)but harkens the question how much filler can jack in the box put in one burger, they did a report in the states once and wendy’s was the winner using ONLY 40% filler. Mr. Fishman, good luck on your future in psychology, clearly you have an aptitude for it, as you know how to push buttons. However, if your high water mark for burgers is JACK IN THE BOX then I would submit that your burger knowledge is is slightly south of yor colon.
2 Jason // Apr 10, 2006 at 9:07 am
Mr. Tritt,
Although I don’t share Dan’s affinity for the Bacon ‘n’ Cheese Ciabatta, I know where he’s coming from with Vera’s. I’ve had good burgers at the Denman location, but I’ve been disappointed many, many times at the one on the UBC campus. The first couple of times were in the first few weeks you opened, so I can cut you some slack there. I probably wouldn’t have come in during those hectic days, had I not been so excited to have a serious burger joint near where I work. But sadly, it hasn’t improved. I think when you bite into a burger you should get that juice running down your mouth, mingling with the sauces, etc. Unfortunately, as of at least a month ago, they are cooking the burgers to death at the UBC location – well beyond well done. I once had a decent burger when I asked the counter guy to have them not cook it so long, and he was very helpful. Since then they usually say something like, “I’ll see what I can do,” and I get the same overdone burger.
3 gerald tritt // Apr 10, 2006 at 12:45 pm
Hi Jason
Fair comments, it is unfotunate that it takes a half witted hack writing on your website to bring this up. Generally speaking if I have an issue with something I will bring it up, with the person that can affect change. I will certainly bring that up with the guys at ubc. However, I would like to know when or if you gave us a fair chance to correct by contacting us and letting us know. Granted, the managers should be on top of it, but to slight us without allowing us to get better, not right. Interesting to note given the cooking comments recently on e-gullet, when we cook to a temp its a 50/50 that the burger comes back “undercooked”
4 Dan Fishman // Apr 10, 2006 at 1:06 pm
Mr. Tritt,
There’s a lot to cover here, so this may be a bit of a long post. First of all, I would argue that my knowledge of burgers is located not South of my colon, rather North of it in my taste buds. I make no claim to be an expert, probably like the vast majority of your customers, but we still expect a burger to taste good. As I said in the review, it may be the case that Vera’s burgers are fresh, but they don’t taste like it, they taste like a premium frozen burger, for which i would be hesitant to pay more than $3.
In your world, it may be the case that everyone has the time, money, and schedule that allows them to stop by for a handmade burger. In the real world, some people can’t afford that, some people work shifts, and some people have only a few minutes to pick up a meal. For those people, fast food is a part of their lives. Now most fast food burger joints do what they do, and we know what we’re getting. However, one man, Jack, has managed to create a fast food burger that actually tastes great.
You make the point that Jack’s burgers are unhealthy, perhaps because they contain a lot of filler. That may or may not be true, but the fact is that if I was really concerned about eating healthy, I wouldn’t be eating a burger at all (something you are clearly aware of given the signs in your restaurant that say things like “We are a full-fat operation”). Therefore, when I do eat a burger I judge it predominantly on one thing: the way that it tastes.
Think of all the disadvantages Jack has; there are hundreds of locations, it is very difficult to find good workers, they have a large menu that they have to be ready to serve (when ordered – they dont pre-cook) 24 hours a day, and yet with all that they managed to create something delicious. Vera’s on the other hand has a limited number of locations, an owner that is clearly directly involved, and a small menu focused on a few things. And yet, the taste of the burgers is still disappointing.
Now, I am not saying that I hate Vera’s; it’s ok. But, in my opinion, it is overpriced and mediocre.
5 Dan Fishman // Apr 10, 2006 at 1:15 pm
Oh, sorry, I had already started my post before your second one went up; I hadn’t realized these were supposed to be personal attacks. All I can say is if you don’t want people writing about how they don’t like your restaurant, perhaps you could try serving better food. Maybe you should try replacing your tired hamburger buns with ciabatta. They named a junior high school after it you know.
6 Jason // Apr 10, 2006 at 1:42 pm
Alright to steer this back to a productive level, here is my theory of what is going on at the UBC location.
1. You are catering to students who really don’t know any better and want their burgers overcooked. They are used to the frozen pre-formed patties they sell at barbeques around campus that are really just horrible.
and/or
2. The staff is simply overcooking them
As to whether we should have brought this up before publishing this article, that’s debatable. It’s not a one-time thing, such as a bad service experience, which I agree, should be brought up with a manager. I’ve been to the UBC location about ten times and so I know it’s a pervasive issue and frankly I thought it would have worked itself out. But I suppose I could have brought it up to a manager before posting Dan’s review.
So what I’ll do is add a note saying the experiences are limited to a certain branch of Vera’s. In a week’s time i will visit the UBC location and see if the burgers have improved. If so,I’ll talk with Dan about removing or editing the offending comment.
I think it’s our responsibility to report on the current quality of restaurants, not help restaurants quality control – although that my be a by-product in some cases. Given this wasn’t a Vera’s review and there was no explanatory information, Dan’s comment may have been a “low-blow.” I do stand by his judgment though.
7 Jack // Apr 10, 2006 at 8:32 pm
Dear Vera’s Moron,
Overpriced and mediocre pretty much hits the nail on the head. Although you do raise an interesting point about Mr. Fishman. All signs point to half-wit, especially when you consider that he will soon have a Phd, and you will still be the owner of a mediocre overpriced hamburger joint. Well played sir, well played. What’s more unfortunate than the concerns of your customers being raised by a “half witted hack” on a website? A disgruntled burger joint owner who has to resort to personal attacks against anyone who doesn’t like his crappy burgers rather than making a decent product in the first place. We’re still doing the personal attack thing right? Oh, also, having tried both Vera’s and the bacon and cheese Ciabatta, I can say with absolute certainty that I would much sooner make the drive to Bellingham than I would pay $9.00 for a mediocre burger and pop.
8 gerald tritt // Apr 10, 2006 at 11:28 pm
To the point that jason made, 2 things, yes our staff need to be coached on ensuring the burger is cooked properly, and yes unfortunately when people see juice they unfortunately think that the burger is undercooked, this happens much more than I would like.
To the points Dan made, I agree with what you said about fast food, I had the conversation tonight about that, the fast food culture and its necessity in our hustle and bustle life. I agree entirely about the the fact that people that eat burgers are not generally concerned with health. However, even a 6 oz burger cannot be bought for 3.00 at a fast food place, it does not exist, and if you think it does, show me where.
Further, Jason, don’t get me wrong, I don’t want the offending comments removed, simply I don’t like being attacked in such a base way, if dan wants to comment on the product and what we can do to improve it, i’m happy to take my lumps, I’m a big boy (literally and figuratively)
Dan, a frozen burger isn’t so much about taste rather texture, it has a spongy feel to it.
I simply find it interesting that when I simply ATTACK someone with no real basis for it, that it elicits such a response. Perhaps Dan in the future you will realise that it is not a great way to do things. If you are going to review a place, review IT, the practice of cheap shots at a an unsuspecting target is unfair.
If you were trying to get my attention, you did.
Lastly, “Jack” poor “jack”, last I checked a masters wasn’t a phd, unless of course you know something I don’t (I should say that I don’t discount dan’s academic merit, I question his methodology for review, I believe Dan is an intelligent person). The comment that I made is simply based on 20 plus years of experience, having never seen a reviewer take a potshot at a restaurant that they weren’t reviewing. If you wanto to review and say thaits garbage and you can back it up, then fine.
Enjoy your drive “jack”, a burger and pop at our place is 6.58 not including tax, make sure you fill your gas tank so you don’t have to calculate how much gas you have in the tank, how is that for personal!
Again to re-iterate, I don’t question dan’s intelligence, and I don’t want jason to remove a post, I simply want fairness, if you want to review and skewer so be it, but potshots don’t fly.
9 Dan Fishman // Apr 12, 2006 at 11:43 am
Sorry my reply is so late; I don’t like argue on the holiest of days (Yankees home opener). My replies:
a) Thank you for clarifying the difference between an MA and a PhD; I think my brother meant soon as in, in a few years, as opposed to soon as in, in a few months.
b) I am pretty certain that you did question my intelligence, unless you guys have a a different definition of “half witted” to go with your alternative definition of excellence… Maybe you should put out a dictionary.
c) McDonald’s has their McDeals, which include the quarter-pounder for $1.79; that works out to 268.5 cents per 6 ounces.
d) I’m not sure that you have tasted the Bacon n Cheese Ciabatta, in which case I’m not sure that you are qualified to judge it.
e) Ask and you shall receive; I will be at Vera’s within the hour, and my review will be up on Monday.
10 gerald // Apr 12, 2006 at 10:09 pm
a) Thank you for clarifying the difference between an MA and a PhD; I think my brother meant soon as in, in a few years, as opposed to soon as in, in a few months.
response-no problem glad I could help clarify
b) I am pretty certain that you did question my intelligence, unless you guys have a a different definition of “half witted” to go with your alternative definition of excellence… Maybe you should put out a dictionary.
response-I do feel that your assessment of us and subsequent comments are half witted. That does not mean you neccesarily lack intelligence, in fact here is a definition from dictionary.com, which I think fairly represents your commentary
adj 1: lacking mental capacity and devoid of subtlety
I would say the latter rather than the former is what I was thinking of.
c) McDonald’s has their McDeals, which include the quarter-pounder for $1.79; that works out to 268.5 cents per 6 ounces.
response- pu-lease, when mcDonalds makes a 6oz fresh patty daily with a kaiser bun, you can compare.
d) I’m not sure that you have tasted the Bacon n Cheese Ciabatta, in which case I’m not sure that you are qualified to judge it.
response-I’ve tried most of the burgers that exist in any fast food joint I am actually a burger fan, someone who tries just about every new burger on both sides of the border.
here is the ingredient list for YOU.
Ciabatta bread GOOD IDEA
Smoky cheddar mayo dressing CHEEZ WIZ, MAYO AND LIQUID SMOKE (YUM?)
Green leaf lettuce PROB TREATED FOR A 14 DAY SHELF LIFE
Tomato
Red onion rings
Bacon slices
American cheese HAS SOME DAIRY IN IT I’M SURE
Jumbo hamburger patties CAN’T ARGUE JUMBO PATTY
e) Ask and you shall receive; I will be at Vera’s within the hour, and my review will be up on Monday.
response-I’m sure I will get a fair review.
11 Dan Fishman // Apr 13, 2006 at 1:14 am
b) “it is unfotunate that it takes a half witted hack writing on your website to bring this up.”
That doesn’t sound like a comment about the review, it sounds like a comment about a person.
Also: “adj 1: lacking mental capacity and devoid of subtlety
I would say the latter rather than the former is what I was thinking of.”
Note that the definition says “and” not “or.”
c) “However, even a 6 oz burger cannot be bought for 3.00 at a fast food place, it does not exist, and if you think it does, show me where.”
“pu-lease, when mcDonalds makes a 6oz fresh patty daily with a kaiser bun, you can compare.”
Seems like you are changing the rules to suit your needs.
d) “I’ve tried most of the burgers that exist in any fast food joint I am actually a burger fan, someone who tries just about every new burger on both sides of the border.”
You don’t actually say either way here; have you actually had the burger in question? If so, what specifically did you not like about it? As we’ve been over, simply claiming that some of the ingredients are of low quality doesn’t mean much to me; I don’t find carbon, oxygen, hydrogen etc. terribly appealing, but arrange them in the form of, say, Katherine McPhee and I think they result in something pretty hot.
e) I will do my best to provide a fair review… i guess you will have to read it to see if i accomplish that.
12 gerald // Apr 13, 2006 at 7:06 am
MY COMMENT-“However, even a 6 oz burger cannot be bought for 3.00 at a fast food place, it does not exist, and if you think it does, show me where.”
YOUR COMMENT-McDonald’s has their McDeals, which include the quarter-pounder for $1.79; that works out to 268.5 cents per 6 ounces
Who has changed the rules? If i go to mcdonalds and ask them for the 6oz 1/4 pounder,will I get it?
Bacon ciabatta burger, yes I have tried it, like the bun, the secret sauce is as decribed above (personally. i did not like it), the cheese was cheap and waxy, the patty was very basic (salt and beef and salt, and salt). All that being said for a fast food patty, mass produced, flash frozen and shipped months in advance it wasn’t bad, i personally prefer the original ciabatta burger if i am eating at jack in the box, but then again i’m a big mac guy, not 1/4lb
13 Dan // Apr 13, 2006 at 11:09 am
haha, good question… I kind of want to try that at McDonald’s… I will ask for a free smile too. Another option: when they have the 2 double cheeseburgers for $3, take off the two bottom buns and make one quadruple. Somehow it makes it taste a lot better. But of course, thats not usually avaialable (and really, you don’t want to let anyone see you doing that).
Interesting that you didn’t like the sauce; everyone I know who has tried it thinks that is the best part. I agree that the patty is basic; for me that is definitely the weakest part of the burger. I haven’t tried the original ciabatta, but if i lived near a jack in the box i would probably have to switch to that; i don’t think 1140 calories per trip on a regular basis would work too well.
14 Dan Fishman // May 2, 2006 at 12:52 pm
I went back to Moderne Burger again this past weekend. It was brilliant again; the Oakman agreed. What a difference not overcooking a burger makes… juice on my hands.. what a concept! But as the Oakman said, Veras is probably just trying to help the environment by reducing the need for paper napkins.
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