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Diner [Now Closed, see Lucky Diner]
Address: 1269 Hamilton St
Tel: 604-444-4855

Diner Stands Alone

By Jason Chin
Eat Vancouver Editor
Friday, September 8th, 2006

** (of four stars)

Diner probably does not serve the best food in town, nor does it necessarily have the best atmosphere, but I would wager that it is one of the most important restaurants in Vancouver.

Situated in trendy Yaletown, flanked by super-trendy (read: expensive) restaurants, Diner stands apart. That’s not to say The Diner isn’t trendy; its sleek design and attractive staff scream otherwise. What sets The Diner apart is that it serves good honest food at a good honest price. In other words, it’s the only restaurant in Yaletown where you can receive the Yaletown experience without paying the Yaletown price, the perfect date destination. Picture it:

“How about dinner and a movie on Friday night?”

“I’m listening.”

“Well, I thought we’d head over to a little spot in Yaletown for dinner, and then catch a movie over at the Paramount…”

“Yaletown huh? Well then big spender, you’ve got yourself a date.”

So maybe I’m not the master of dialogue, but you get the idea. Diner represents a great value in that you get a great meal in a trendy restaurant, in one of Vancouver’s trendiest neighborhoods, and you’ll get away spending less than $50. But how is the food, you might ask.

As you might expect expect, Diner specializes in traditional diner fare: burgers, meatloaf, mac and cheese, and so on. All of which are displayed on a large chalkboard above the open kitchen. Overall, the offerings are quite good, traditional items gussied up with high quality ingredients and careful preparations. My favorite of the bunch is the meatloaf melt, a healthy slab of meatloaf and a slice of cheese grilled between two slices of thick bread. The sauce is bright, the meatloaf is hearty and the grilled bread and cheese offers a nice crunch: overall, a fine dish. The burger is also a winner, consisting of a huge juicy patty, a quality roll and fresh toppings.

Pierogies don’t seem like typical diner fare to me, but they certainly fit with the comfort food theme. Diner’s rendition of these cheese-stuffed potato dumplings is good, if somewhat uninspired. The same can be said for their mac and cheese, a delicious gooey mess of noodle and rich cheeses. I’d question the inclusion of this dish as an entrée, however, as a meal of mac and cheese alone in any context can become somewhat redundant. I prefer ordering this along with another of Diner’s entrees and sharing.

With regard to libations, Diner has a reasonably good wine and beer list, as well as the spirits on hand to mix up just about any cocktail you might fancy. Their staff is professional and knowledgeable enough to make good recommendations.
Overall, Diner is a nice refuge from pricy Yaletown, but you can still count on good food and atmosphere. Just make sure you hit the ATM before your date, because Diner is cash only.