eatvancouver.net

Target 4: Lin’s Chinese Cuisine and Teahouse
Broadway @ Granville
Page 1; Page 2
Price: $4.99 for 6 baos

Visit date: April 5th, 2008
Visit time: 8:00 PM

–ratings–

Jason’s ratings

Soup: 5.5/10
Pastry: 8/10
Meat: 8/10
Other items & condiments: 3.25/5
Service & atmosphere: 4/5

Jason’s total: 7.1875/10

Des’ ratings –

Soup: 6/10
Pastry: 7.5/10
Meat: 7/10
Other items & condiments: 3.5/5
Service & atmosphere: 4/5

Des’ total: 7/10

Total Score (averaged across both raters, all variables) = 7.09375
Quality per dollar (based on an order of six) = 1.42159
—

Jason’s notes –

Word on the street is it’s been long time since a bao-down. Word on the street is the team behind The Place has opened up a new Chinese restaurant, specializing in Shanghai cuisine right at Broadway and Granville. Word on the street is the Eat Vancouver squad wasn’t far behind.

Based on an admittedly limited sample size (a whopping one), it seems there is more to dislike than there is to like at Lin’s. To the start with the positives: 1) it’s darned convenient to most of Vancouver; 2) it’s not bad; and 3) the inside is rather spiffy for a casual Chinese restaurant, save for the unfortunate salmon-colored walls. And these points are really enough to make Lin’s worth a shot, but it just doesn’t stand up to the better Shanghai spots we’ve tried in Vancouver. Then again, it’s the only one with a TV playing a slideshow of their more popular dishes, so well, that’s something.

Perhaps because of the presumably high cost of doing business at Granville and Broadway, the prices at Lin’s are higher than what I’ve grown accustomed to at most comparable Chinese restaurants. The prices for most dishes on the menu were $1-2 than notable rivals, and the quality was not there to match. The house special noodles, thick ones stir fried with pork, were pretty average for noodles, but by no means offensive. The fried eel lacked punch and came stewing in a bowl of its own grease. I know eel is a fatty fish, but if I’m going to consume that much fat, I might as well get some flavor in return. But perhaps most damning complaints lie wit the middling xiaolongbao. After we individually rated the bao, we both had to admit that the soup inside was not only just bland, but far too scant. The meat hijacked this bao and when I’m consuming soup dumplings, that just shouldn’t be the case. The pastry, however, was admirably thin, yet strong enough to hold up. The vinegar was also better than the average stuff.

Other significant dishes that evening were a nicely plated spicy wonton appetizer that one points for the addition of greens as a garnish, but lost for its lack of heat, and fine flaky green onion pancakes.

I’ve heard great things about Lin’s so it’s definitely possible that this was just an off night for them. But at the least, it’s some indication that the kitchen should look to bolster their consistency is preparing excellent Shanghai cuisine.