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And so the great phodown begins.

Target 1: Pho Tan
Address: 4598 Main Street (map)
Phone: 604-873-3345
Menu: Page 1; Page 2
Price: $5.00 small pho; $5.85 large
Condiments Photo

Visit date: November 27th, 2006
Visit time: 6:45PM

–ratings–

Jason’s ratings (#19 rare beef and tendon) –

Broth: 5.5/10
Beef: 9/10
Noodle: 4/10
Condiments: 5/10
Other factors (service, atmosphere, etc): 9/10

Jason’s total: 6.5/10

Des’ ratings (#15 rare beef and brisket) –

Broth: 6/10
Beef: 6/10
Noodle: 5/10
Condiments: 5/10
Other factors: 6/10

Des’ total: 5.6/10

Total Score (averaged across both raters, all variables) = 6.05/10
Quality per dollar (based on large pho) = 1.03/$
—

Description from Jason:

The Great Phodown got off to a slow start last night when Desmond and I tried Pho Tan over on Main and 30th.

My first impression of the restaurant was very favorable, dark walls with tasteful paintings, a display case for wine and other spirits, dark paneling, and not-too-bright lights make it nicer than just about any other pho restaurant I’ve been to. That’s probably because despite the name, it’s not just a pho restaurant, but happens to offer a full Vietnamese menu. I tend to think the places with only pho tend to offer better pho, but I’m open minded (or so says my dominatrix, Sheeva).

Well, to get right to the point, the décor and service here were just about the only good things going for Pho Tan. If you take a look at our ratings, Desmond and I tended to agree, so I’ll mainly report some observations I made. First, the broth was about average. The flavor was fine and it wasn’t too oily, but there wasn’t that deep meaty flavor that good pho has. It was also a bit too salty, which was probably done in order to compensate for the lack of meatiness. The main problem, however, were with the noodles: they were simply too many. Like Sheeva at an accounts conference, the noodles took over the show. Don’t get me wrong, the noodles were cooked just fine, starting off al dente and cooking more as I ate, but the bowl was nearly all noodles and I’m of the belief that pho needs a balance between meat, noodle and broth. Otherwise you’re eating a bowl of noodles and not beef noodle soup.

Desmond and I differed a little on the beef. The rare beef in my soup was some of the best I’ve had, being perfectly fresh and thinly sliced. As it should be, it was placed raw on top and it cooked as I ate. Desmond thought the meat was fine, but wasn’t overly impressed. We agreed on the condiments: they left something to be desired. The main problems were a lack of basil and the fact that the basil and bean sprouts were steamed. I’ve seen that at Cambodian restaurants, but never with pho. And what’s the point? It’s going to steam in the soup anyway, but giving fresh sprouts allows you to get the textural element when you first add them, and experience a changing soup as they cook, getting softer in the process. Steaming the bean sprouts just doesn’t make sense. I did, however, like the little cup of spicy chili paste – a nice touch.

In summary, the numbers speak for themselves. For service, atmosphere and beef, Pho Tan is a good choice. For overall pho, however, they need some work. Now I didn’t expect to find the ultimate pho on my first shot, but this is a discouraging start. Still, the search continues, and once again, if you have any suggestions about where to head next, give us a shout.